The Roof of Africa: Climbing Kilimanjaro

24–36 minutes

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Mount Kilimanjaro (for the fact lovers):

  • LOCATION: Tanzania, Africa
  • ELEVATION: 5,895m
  • MOUNTAIN TYPE: Stratovolcano
  • VOLCANIC ACTIVITY: Dormant
  • AGE: 3 million years
  • LAST ERUPTION: 150,000 – 200,000 years ago
  • VOLCANIC CONES: Shira, Kibo, Mawenzi
  • SUMMIT: Uhuru Peak (Kibo Cone)
  • FIRST ASCENT: 6 October 1889 by Hans Meyer & Ludwig Purtscheller

Welcome to Tanzania

It was the evening of my Birthday, and the plane touched down blowing brown dust clouds around Kilimanjaro International Airport. Stepping off the plane onto the tarmac, I followed my group across the runway, through the doors into the little airport.

It had been a busy year, training and fundraising for my local charity, The Hampshire & Isle of Wight Air Ambulance, for which I was climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. The initial part of the challenge; the part I found most difficult (talking myself up, running public events, being ‘outgoing,’ persuading people to donate their money) was complete, and it was time for the part I was most excited about – climbing the mountain! I was part of a group of 23 British strangers, including the Air Ambulance representatives, Ian, Sophie and Tim the medic who were leading the event, but we had all become friends through months of training exercises and fundraising events. Now we’d finally arrived in Africa, and warmth greeted us beneath the night sky as we were transferred to our base at the Weru Weru River Lodge.

Corrugated iron shop fronts whirred past the windows, clustered between little trees on the roadside. Dogs sniffed around outside a petrol station, and people gathered on benches outside little bars, sharing a drink or evening meal. Bonfires were lit on sandy scrubland, as mopeds with 2 or 3 people on the back sped by, and occasionally a shape in the shadow turned out to be someone sitting on the verge sticking his thumb up as we drove by. The Weru Weru River Lodge was amazing – luxury I was not used to! They had resident tortoises and camels roaming about the grounds, and trees full of native birds. We were greeted by the staff with handshakes, and we enjoyed a local Kilimanjaro beer before turning in to our ensuite rooms with stylish wooden furniture and balconies overlooking the national park. A welcome bit of comfort before spending the next seven nights in a tent!

(Click on the photos to enlarge them.)

Prep Day

Anticipation running high, our group met with our head guide, Julio, an incredible Tanzanian man with a tonne of local experience, knowledge and wisdom. He briefed us with the itinerary, all the safety measures, and put some of our worries at ease, before individually inspecting each of our kit. Julio’s most important lesson was to ‘Respect The Mountain,’ because you can’t win when you argue with nature. Once we were all set, the guides took us into Moshi to look around a local arts market – to help take our minds off the impending Kilimanjaro challenge. There was a tremendous thunderstorm with torrential rain that tattooed the tin roof so loudly we couldn’t hear each other speak. The shop’s power went out in the storm, and we were introduced to some street vendors who were selling the classic Kilimanjaro safari hats, for which we bartered playfully while we waited for the storm to pass: “$8, come on sister!” (I wasn’t very good at bartering, but I got one for $6!)

Day One – “Polē Polē”

Mount Kilimanjaro made its first appearance in the morning, looming hazily over the coffee plantations surrounding the lodge. Its top was dipped in snow, bright against the blue sky. We were transferred from the lodge at 9am on a minibus, passing through bustling villages, where the locals smiled and waved, sometimes high fiving us through the bus’s open windows. Big yellow dogs lay asleep outside shops adorned with giant coca cola adverts, and workers strolled along the roadside with machetes and baskets of bananas balanced on their heads.

We piled out of the mini bus at Machame Gate – one of eight trailhead gates at the base of Kilimanjaro. After signing a register, we did some final kit checks and gathered with our team of local guides for a sort of pre-game huddle. Ian made sure to check in with everyone individually, despite his own nerves. Finally, we got the ‘go-ahead’, and we ceremoniously passed through the gates onto the mountain trail, the guides repeating “Polē Polē,” (Swahili for slowly slowly.) The pace felt too slow at this stage, but it was essential to acclimatise. Meanwhile, a huge team of porters – our ‘Rafiki’ (friends) – gathered all the luggage; tents, mess tents, food, kitchen equipment, chairs, tables, anything else you can think of, and carried the large packs over their heads while they traversed the mountain on foot, overtaking us at three times our speed! I found this a bit controversial at first, but the tour groups’ main priority is to have everyone back down the mountain in one piece, so they go to great lengths to look after you, so you can focus on completing your challenge safely. A tip for the porters was also included in the price of the excursion. We were extremely thankful for them!

Blue Monkeys watched us curiously from the trees as we trekked into the cloud rainforest. Time was lost in the climb, as the forest grew taller and denser; the footpath becoming narrower. The first toilet stop wasn’t too traumatising – as you can imagine, the long drops get more horrendous the further you go up! After that, the heavens opened and we waterproofed up, walking to the serene soundtrack of the African rainforest.

(My mountain photos were taken on a 2015 Android phone… click to see them in their full pixelated glory!)

We had our first lunch stop perched on logs beneath the cloud forest canopy – miscellaneous deep fried things we couldn’t identify – regardless, it was quite tasty! Hiking up and up through the dense forest, to around 1,200m elevation, with glimpses of vast sky stretching over miles and miles of flat African plains between the trees, we finally broke out of the cloud forest and reached our first camp just before nightfall. The porters or ‘Rafiki’ had already built our fold-away settlement, and we were escorted to our respective tents to drop off our day packs. Tea, milo and popcorn was waiting for us in the mess tent, where we sat around a trestle table on fold up chairs, barely believing our tired eyes that we were receiving such luxuries from the amazing team of Rafiki. Then dinner was served… skin soup to start, followed by beef stew with roast potatoes on the side, with sliced avocado for afters before staggering back to our tents for our first night’s rest on the mountain.

Day Two – “Kilimanjaro, Hakuna Matata”

Our 5:30am wake up call came with a cup of Kilimanjaro tea delivered straight to our zip up door! “Asante Sana!” (Thank you very much!) Daylight lapped at the edges of the sky as we dressed and packed our things. The sky turned pink over the snowy peak above us and the sun began to rise. After a bowl of porridge and a sausage, we set off around 7:30am, climbing in glorious sunshine. Spirits were high for most of the group, and we rose up out of the bush to a pristine view of the cloud rainforest below and breaking the horizon was Mount Meru – Tanzania’s second highest volcano. As we climbed into the afternoon, clouds rolled in, engulfing the scenery in patches of fog. The plant life around us changed, with unique flowers and trees popping up between rocks and moss. One of our guides, ‘Prof’ passed the time chatting about the local wildlife in Tanzania’s plains, comparing their hunting techniques. Prof also carried a vuvuzela, which he intermittently trumpeted on to boost morale and give us all a giggle!

After a snack stop in the company of Aaron, Si, Steph, and Tom, (the others were scattered further ahead and behind) we scaled the steepest bit of the day, scrambling up a rock face and passing other-worldly caves with miniature waterfalls and rockpools high in the mountain mist. Prof reminded us that the cloud was dangerous for UV: he carefully painted some of Si’s sun cream on his own cheeks and nose and said that Masai men wear white paint like that for ceremonies as a mark of manhood! We met with two other guides, Henry and Ibra, and collectively they taught us some Swahili phrases:

  • Nina Njaa – I’m hungry
  • Ndio – Yes
  • Mbu – Mosquito
  • Poa kichizi kama ndizi kwenye friji – Cool & crazy like a banana in the fridge!
  • kazi nzuri – Good job

We descended into the misty Shira Cave Camp, where we were greeted with high fives and fist bumps from our Rafiki, and shown to our tents. Enormous White-necked Ravens hopped about the landscape, pecking at the dirt with their bulbous beaks. A couple of them were preening themselves in a tree, silhouetted on the fog. Lunch was served in the mess tent; spaghetti and vegetable curry with cheese on top – we gave the Chefs a round of applause.

The afternoon at Shira Cave Camp was a bit different to the usual schedule – after a shorter day of walking, we had time to rest in anticipation of tomorrow’s big day of acclimatisation. Before dinner, the entire team of guides and porters began a dancing and singing circle, giving us some motivational African entertainment. We learned the words to ‘Jambo Bwana’ and we sang and danced until we had all gone silly!

Jambo, jambo Bwana (Hello, hello Sir)
Habari gani (How are you?)
Mzuri sana (Very fine)
Wageni, mwakaribishwa (Foreigners, you’re welcome)

Kilimanjaro, hakuna matata (Kilimanjaro, there is no problem)

Tembea pole pole, hakuna matata (Walk slowly, slowly, no problem)
Utafika salama, hakuna matata (You’ll get there safe, no problem)
Kunywa maji mengi, hakuna matata (Drink plenty of water, no problem)

There was a small matter of our guides asking us to sing a song from England for them, and we all had some sort of brain paralysis and mutually started singing ‘Freed from Desire,’ but as a football chant… let’s pretend that didn’t happen! That evening, the clouds rolled away and the stars shone so brightly over camp. Somewhere in the distance beyond Mount Meru a storm lit the sky in silent purple strobes, and I slept well.

Day Three – “Headaches and Fried Potatoes”

We said farewell to two of our group this morning – it was sad to break up the group, but they decided they’d reached their limits, which is a difficult and respectable thing to do. We had risen before dawn for a quick breakfast and began the tough trek into the beautiful rising sun at 7:30. It was glorious and warm, but as the hours passed and we climbed higher into cloud, the chill crept in quickly. We were gaining altitude fast, and the land became very bleak as we crossed into the Alpine Desert, with nothing but huge boulders and red mud. Much of the group began to feel the effects of altitude, suffering with pressure headaches and struggling to catch our breath. It really made me sensitive to the cold and the exhaustion, but with a piece of ginger and some ibuprofen, I managed to stay on top of it. The guides made sure we stopped regularly and sipped our water steadily.

We climbed the vast, rocky landscape up to the Lava Tower, mist skimming the ground beneath our feet, finally reaching an altitude of 4,600m. This was our acclimatisation hike, and the highest point of our trek until we reached the Kibo Cone. From here we’d descend again – this exercise would, in theory, make our summit attempt much easier in terms of getting our bodies used to the altitude. Our Rafiki had already arrived and put up the mess tents beneath the tower of solidified lava, where we were treated to hot fried potatoes, cheese toasties and cake! Since altitude sickness feels a bit like a hangover, hangover food was extremely welcome! Even those who were sick to their stomach felt better after the feed, and we continued hiking down the other side of the Lava Tower, across streams and little waterfalls on this strange barren landscape.

It began to hail quite heavily as we trekked, which then turned into snow, and we plodded ever onwards until we started to see vegetation again. Strange, almost cactus-like trees, and flowers growing in the mist, surrounded by little rocky waterfalls. Eventually, we found ourselves gladly at Barranco Camp, where Macaroni and Bolognese went down a treat for dinner. We were informed that Barranco Camp was the highest point for rescue helicopters to land on our route – from here on up, if we got injured, we’d have to rely on being wheeled back down on a ‘Mountain Taxi,’ which we’d discover in a day or two… Once again, the stars were stunning and we could see lights far below in the real world. I watched a little Four-Striped Grass Mouse hopping around outside the tent under the looming Barranco Wall; the infamous cliff we would be scaling in the morning.

Day Four – “On Top Of The World”

We were ready to leave Barranco Camp at 7am, with the sky just lighting up at the edges, and we sang Happy Birthday in Swahili to Grace. I had awoken with a painful, swollen red face, which I think was a combination of yesterday’s morning sun, and an allergic reaction to my SPF50 sun cream – great combination! Tim – our group medic – advised me to borrow a different sun cream and keep applying tea tree gel. The group reacted very sympathetically to my appearance, which in turn made me feel very self conscious. In all this commotion, I didn’t get a chance to fill my water bottles, leaving camp with under 2 litres of water – not ideal. As we began climbing I was forcing back tears, feeling on the back foot, but I was soon brought back to reasoning by the stunning surroundings.

More than two hours of hoisting ourselves up sheer cliffs, edging along narrow ledges, giving one another leg ups, and even climbing on our guides’ knees, the camp was slowly falling into the distance beneath us, tiny green tents dotted on a real-life map. The valley and rainforest stretched out to blurry lines towards Mount Meru on the horizon, and the sun rose up over the wall to meet us. We sang and danced the ‘Barranco Shake’ while our Rafiki trooped past us with bags and baskets balanced on their heads. Grace stopped to tie a shoelace for one of them so he didn’t have to put down his pack! Maximum respect!

At the top of the wall the way ahead levelled out beneath the blazing sun, and the view was glorious, like looking out of an air plane! We took lots of photos, jumping in the air with our guides, and gave ourselves a moment on top of the world to take it all in.

As cloud started to pour in again, we took the zig-zagging path up through the valley to Karanga Camp, all singing as we went. After we arrived, there was an epic thunderstorm and the mountain summit drifted in and out of view in the mist. Then it hailed! We had dinner and Birthday cake, and then we all ran back to our tents through the torrential rain to settle down for a long sleep.

Day Five – “Way of the Stone Stacks”

We were granted a lie in until 7am! But we were all up at 5:30 anyway. Our Rafiki brought tea to our tents as usual, saying “Habari za Asubuhi,” (Good Morning) and we went for breakfast, which today included some waxy yams that were quite interesting… We bid farewell to one more of the group, who left valiantly and proud, and some tears were shed. The summit loomed over Karanga Camp, and the snow line was lower than the day before, but the sky was blue and the sun was rising, making the snowy peak look like candy.

Morning at Karanga Camp

Today’s hike was short, but extremely “Polē Polē” due to the thin air. We crossed the stark, desert-like slope between strange walls of cloud, where hundreds of previous hikers had made stone stacks all around us, like something from another world. A couple of people in our group were really struggling – it wasn’t an easy ride – but we all made it up across the steep, rocky plain around the base of Kibo Cone to Barafu Camp by 1pm. Lunch was at 1:30pm – mashed potato and lentil curry, followed by one last briefing before our summit attempt began at 11pm.

Barafu Camp sits at the base of Kibo Cone at around 4,673m, on a sparse, windswept slope. Even as I sat talking with Si, wind gusts punched into the tent, howling and rattling the door zips. The temperature here typically ranges between 4°C and -29°C, so high quality kit and a certain level of fitness are requirements. From here, it is a shuffling 6-7 hour hike, 1,255 metres to the top of Kibo Cone to Uhuru Peak – The Roof of Africa: the highest volcano outside of South America, and the top of the tallest free-standing mountain in the world.

“Up”

After a long, anxious afternoon rest, we were summoned from our tents at 10pm. Wearing every layer I’d brought with me, my pockets were stuffed with food and medication for easy access; phones and cameras buried deep in our layers to keep the batteries from freezing so we could get that long-awaited sunrise shot at Uhuru Peak. We congregated in the mess tent for our last supper – a massive plate of spaghetti – and made sure to fill our water containers. We followed our guides single file through Barafu Camp by head torch light, quiet anticipation buzzing through us. It had already begun to snow before we left camp, a light, gentle snow, and I sensed a subtle twinge of concern on Julio’s face. Maybe this bit was always stressful for the guides. Flashes of lightning from the clouds below us lit the snow pink and thunder rumbled around the mountain, and we grinned at one another through our face coverings. We trooped in a neat line through the darkness, a guide positioned between every second or third person – experienced pioneers of the mountain, who had become our friends – making sure nobody got left behind.

The snow was falling fast and thick now, coating the path ahead as we crossed into what is known as ‘The Arctic Zone’, so we were relying solely on the direction of the guides. Freezing wind whipped our faces while the lightning grew more frequent, shedding ultraviolet flashes on the snowy summit above, and thunder applauded loudly, echoing around the volcano cone. The whole group stopped in the shelter of a large rock, as the guides wanted to make sure we were all coherent, and taking in enough fluid and sustenance. But one of our group members wasn’t ok, acting delirious from altitude sickness, so Ian and Julio made the tough call to send him back to camp with another guide. We’d stopped for a moment too long and everyone was feeling the brutal cold as the wind grew stronger. Pushing forwards into the dead of night, the wind picked up more and more energy as we climbed closer to the summit. Snow was lashing down in sharp stones of ice, blowing sideways into our faces, fusing the fabric of our hats and face covers to our skin. Miniature icicles stuck to my eyelashes, and despite layers of thermal gloves, my fingertips were getting so cold they were painful. I had to stop to find a handwarmer – Julio helped me, rubbing my hands to get the blood flowing, but eventually we decided to just keep trekking on as we risked getting even colder by just standing there.

The weather was horrendous now. Snow somehow covered our tracks before our feet had left the ground. We couldn’t see, could barely breathe for the wind, and our faces stung. Si was close behind me, and Gemma was ahead, her poles skidding as the gale-force wind whipped the icy ground from beneath her feet. But we were determined! Heads down, one foot after another, all muttering little pep-talks under our breath, thinking about that first glimmer of sunrise.

We reached a change in the path and Julio halted us in our tracks, telling us to wait in the shelter of another big rock. We followed his orders, it was probably just another drink stop, or to let the rest of the group catch up, but he’d disappeared from our sight. Si, Gemma and I shivered, agreeing that we’d have to get moving soon or we’d freeze to death. As we stared up at the line of lights walking ahead of us, searching for Julio, our hearts dropped. The line of head torches were all facing us, coming back towards us. I froze, and Gemma and Si shared my silence. What did it mean? Julio re-appeared, gesturing for us to turn back.

“We have to go back. The storm is too bad; it’s too dangerous,” he was serious, rushing on to convey the message to the others. I couldn’t turn around. I simply watched as our team walked back past me in the wrong direction; I couldn’t make my feet move. We’d been walking for over four hours – just 600 metres to go! We couldn’t be quitting, not now!

“Down”

Everyone’s water had frozen hours ago. I saw people melting their eyelashes between their fingertips in order to see. My hat was literally frozen on to my forehead. I couldn’t feel my feet. But all of this felt numb compared to the feeling in my chest. I didn’t want to return to camp, not with just a few more hours to struggle through until we reached the top. It was in our grasp, so close, the closest we’ll ever be – we’d been walking for five days, what’s five hours more!? I wasn’t thinking rationally, and everything in my soul was fighting against what was happening, but my limbs just plodded on, numbly following the group back to camp, dragging my hiking poles behind me. I didn’t want to be alone, but at the same time I couldn’t talk to anyone. I placed myself behind Ben and Luke, and in front of Katie and Jack. No one spoke. A few of us shared glances of mutual disappointment. Luke was sobbing and Sophie quietly walked with him for a bit. Even our guides looked devastated – not for themselves, they do this frequently – but for us. They’d worked so hard to get our group this far, seen our relationships grow and our determination to reach the top. Now all they could see was our dream shattered across our faces. A year of hard work, training, fundraising and mentally preparing, convincing ourselves, ‘we can do this!’ Building a huge expectation and failing… it all came crashing down like an angry avalanche.

The path back down was very treacherous with the constant battling snow, and the never-ending stream of feet shuffling down made the path like an ice rink. Several people fell several times. Sophie slipped and just kept going as if she were on a slide, while a guide yelled ‘Polē Polē’ as she went shooting past him. She was ok, a bit bruised, but in a few days we’d be able to look back and find it hilarious. Not right now. Jack slipped behind me, unfortunately doing a number on his ankle, making it difficult for him to walk at all. Julio and all the other guides were incredible, running back and forth, asking individuals if they were OK, fashioning themselves into human railings, sometimes physically lifting us to a safer foot hold. Prof appeared behind me, I glanced at him and he was looking at me with concern. “You OK?” he asked. I shrugged, “Just sad,” I said. Prof just gave a little nod, took my hand and walked beside me for a little while, until he needed to help someone else.

Tents gradually started to come into view as we made our way slowly into the higher reaches of Barafu Camp. The weather had subsided; it was no longer snowing down here and the wind only came in occasional gusts. We arrived at our camp at the time we should have been arriving at the summit, and all our Rafiki were applauding and cheering, which we didn’t want to hear. The sun was rising, dangerously orange through the lingering storm clouds. Some people stayed up to watch it, but for the first time in my life, it was the last thing I wanted to see.

Day Six – “An Emotional Rollercoaster”

Si appeared at the tent with instructions from Julio, to rest for an hour and regroup in the mess tent. I must have slept, for when I opened my eyes I felt that sense of impending doom, of reality falling back into my consciousness. It wasn’t a bad dream. It was quiet and I was alone – immediate negativity flooded me – they’re reattempting the summit and have left without me! But I snapped myself out of it, pulled on my damp shoes and went to the mess tent. There were only seven of the group there, all sitting extremely quietly. I edged in and found myself a seat, forcing myself to eat a piece of fried bread the cooks had somehow mustered up (we weren’t supposed to be there for breakfast.) Conversation was sparse, and tears were flowing around the group, catching on to the next person as we exchanged eye contact. Suddenly, Tim appeared in the entrance and said we have three options. None of them were to have another go, so I didn’t hear the rest. Everyone went to pack their bags and prepare for the descent down the mountain, but Si and I just sat there.

Julio sent some of our Rafiki to get a ‘mountain taxi’ or ‘Kilimobile’ for Jack, who was struggling to walk on his busted ankle. They returned with a big mesh wheelbarrow, like a metal stretcher with a bicycle wheel on the bottom! Wrapped in his sleeping bag, they laid Jack on the ‘Kilimobile’ and strapped him in, so just his smiling face was showing, and a small group of Rafiki grabbed all sides of the stretcher and wheeled him down the mountain. He was probably back at the lodge with a nice cold beer within half an hour!

Meanwhile, me and Si agreed that we really weren’t ready to pack it all in. I went back to my tent and started throwing things haphazardly into my bag, when Si appeared at the tent again. “If there’s any possible chance, would you want to try again?” he said, fire in his eyes. “Hell yes.” I responded without a second thought, and with a nod, Si disappeared again. I followed him back into the mess tent, where we sat down with Tim and Ian. Si made his pitch, raw with emotion, and they understood how important it was to us, but they were talking us out of it – there were too many complications. By this stage it would be near impossible to pull off. The guides and porters were doing a job, and they no doubt had to be back in time for their next tour, and if we took an extra day we’d have to pay for it too, which isn’t cheap. Not to mention the unprecedented snowstorm up there. This was just the harsh reality of nature.

“I had to ask,” Si kept saying as we packed our bags. I was ever so glad he did. At least we’d fought to try. As we could hear the group starting to leave outside, I rushed to put my shoes back on. Julio came to our tent, calling for us, “Yep, just coming!” I called, but he popped his head in and put his hand on my shoes to stop me. He told us he wanted to try anything to get us to the summit and told us to just wait a couple of minutes so he could check the options. He acknowledged that we were both strong enough and well acclimatized. Julio made a few calls on his radio and spoke to various people, suggesting we could join another tour group who were summiting today. We’d have to leave now, and we’d reach Uhuru Peak at 7pm, in the dark. Then we’d have to get all the way back down the mountain the following day. It was a lot, with no time for any more rest. I was exhausted, and Si looked it too, though adrenaline had us both wired. Julio got back on his radio to confirm, but the final answer came. “OK, I think we have to go down now,” he relayed to us, “they just told me there was a fatality up there, so we’ll go down.” That was the final decision. We didn’t argue with that. I’d been so hyper focused on completing the challenge, that I almost neglected to Respect The Mountain.

“Safe”

Julio led me and Si down at his quick pace, so we were able to catch the rest of the group within half an hour. We stopped at Millennium Camp for our last cooked lunch from the amazing chefs and continued the steep descent through the rainforest on the Mweka Route – the mountain’s shortest and steepest trail. Sunshine pouring through the rainforest (and potentially extreme fatigue) seemed to lift the world from our shoulders as we got closer to the bottom, and a few of us had already begun planning Kilimanjaro Challenge ‘Take Two,’ which made us feel better. At Mweka Camp, a medical car picked us up in shifts, taking us to a coach that would bring us back to the Weru Weru River Lodge.

Having descended a day early, we had an extra day at the Lodge, where we all got together and had a pool party in beautiful Lodge grounds! Together we reflected on the journey, marvelled at the guides and porters, and praised Ian and Tim for making very hard but necessary decisions for the safety of the entire group. Julio revealed that there hadn’t been a snowstorm like that on Kilimanjaro in many years, and it wasn’t normal for the season. We were all very thankful that we had each other, and that we came back as a team; grateful that we were all safe. It would have felt very wrong summitting without the rest of the group, and as we blew off some steam, I was able to appreciate what we had achieved. Later, the River Lodge threw us a celebration dinner in the garden, and we received certificates because we’d exceeded 5,200m elevation. Everyone was there, including our guides, and we all had a merry amount to drink!

In hindsight, the real challenge for me was the fear of not being able to complete it. I already don’t like building up other people’s expectations if I can’t fulfil them, which was my initial fear in the fundraising part of the challenge. Then I had to face that fear, and sit with it, which I had done everything in my control to avoid. Myself and a few others in the group always said we’d get together one day and try again, and that was a comforting prospect as we felt we had unfinished business! It has taken years, but I am finally content with my attempt. We might not have touched the frozen sign on top of Uhuru Peak, but we DID climb Kilimanjaro. We DID see the plains of Africa from above the clouds. We DID catch our breath at the highest altitudes we’ve ever stood. We DID hike into the Arctic Zone in an adverse snow storm in the middle of the night. We DID see the violent, pink lightning illuminating the clouds beneath us. We DID watch the sunrise from the highest volcanic cone in Africa. We DID witness the power of the Mountain, and we DID survive to tell the tale.

Maximum Respect!

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Volunteering with Elephants – Chiang Mai, Thailand

A scorching sun rolls skyward into the haze as we leave our hostel (and its resident mosquitoes) in the "Haiya" subdistrict of Chiang Mai city. It's 8:30 am, on an October Saturday in 2018. The 12 seater shuttle bus we board is clammy, and stuffed with tourists, our mutual excitement is thick in the air. We chug north bound for an hour, finally stopping at the edge of the jungle, in a village in San Pa Yang.   
ERP image
One by one, we step out of the mini van onto the dusty driveway, and there they are, beautiful, gentle giants. A few of the elephants come plodding quickly over to our van, swinging their trunks as they come - they know our arrival means feeding time!   

Meet The Elephants

When I was there in October 2018, there were 6 elephants living at the park, all female, with a lot of history between them.

Bella – 20 years old

The park’s longest member, Bella had been living there for 4 years. She’d been rescued from a show where she’d play ball games like golf and football, and performed dances and tricks like sitting on chairs. This resulted in her left leg being damaged. A happy retirement was the safest option for Bella, over a complicated procedure that could cause more unnecessary trauma and be extremely costly. Bella could still walk on her leg, but the disfigurement caused her to limp, which put stress on her spine and shoulders. There are plenty of shaded areas built in the park, like this one, where Bella could rest at her will.

Bella had a calm and mothering nature, and was the adoptive mother of Lanna, one of the park’s baby elephants. Bella sadly passed away in June 2021.

Jao-nang – 31 years old

Born in 1987, Jao-nang is a beautiful elephant in the prime of her life. She was rescued from 20 years in the riding industry for tourism. At the time I was there in October 2018, she was 6 months pregnant, after entering a breeding program with one of E.R.P’s sister park’s bulls. Jao-nang had her baby in 2020, that’s right, elephant pregnancies last 18-22 months!

Jao-ying – 36 years old

Born in 1982, Jao-ying was the park’s oldest elephant, but she isn’t old at all, as an average Asian elephant’s life span is 60-80 years.
She worked for 20 years in the logging industry, before being sold for riding, and was rescued by E.R.P in 2016.

Lanna – 3 years old

A clear favourite among tourists, Lanna is sociable, curious, and a fast learner. She was born at the Elephant Retirement Park in 2015, and when she was 2, her mother was moved to a sister park in the south for further breeding. Her and Bella developed a mother-daughter like connection.

Ping & Tong – 2 years old

These cheeky twin sisters moved into E.R.P in 2018 from a nearby camp who did not have the means to support two calfs. They are bright and playful, and have been known to be quite naughty!

The Staff

The Elephant Retirement Park is not only home to elephants. It is also home to the mahouts and their families, who live onsite, close to the elephants at all times. These mahouts have a close bond and special understanding with the elephants – they do not ride them, or control them using sticks or chains; they oversee the safety of everyone. The staff onsite all help out with gathering food for the animals, cooking, cleaning and maintenance at the park, building new additions to the park, and also helping out in the local community.



And then of course there are the volunteers. Pictured are Meli, Simon and me.

Alex was our fantastic host, he managed the park and all the volunteering tasks for us. He looked after us well, and once the working part of the day was done, he loved taking us out for dinner, showing us the sights, and introducing us to his friends. He showed us how to party once or twice too!

First thing first – we needed to meet the elephants! Simon and I arrived with a half-day tour group, so we got to experience the tour and get a good introduction to the park and its residents. The elephants knew the schedule by heart, and yep, it was feeding time!

The food store was stocked chock-a-block with bananas, sugar cane, and banana leaves. Each of us was given a tote bag to fill, and a couple of people were given bottles of milk for the babies. As we emerged from the food store, the elephants were waiting, holding their trunks out! At first, they took anything we gave them, often trying a cheeky trunk dip in our bags, (we were instructed to keep the tote bags firmly under our arms, as they would try and take the whole thing) but it wasn’t long before they started rejecting sugar cane, throwing it on the floor and asking for bananas instead!

Feeding Time

Once all the food was gone, we were taken further down into the park, towards the mud bath and pool, and that’s where the real fun began! Elephants like to roll in mud, or throw it over themselves with their trunks. Mud baths help cool them down, and protect them from common ticks. The mahouts started a mud fight, and we all ended up throwing clumps of wet mud at each other, laughing, slipping and sliding, so by the end of it everyone and everything was a monochrome of mud!

Time for a wash! The elephants had already wandered off to the pool, seemingly rolling their eyes at the silly humans, and we followed, splashing water with little plastic dishes we were given to wash the elephants.

One of the Mahout huts next to the elephant pool
Our Dorm – bottom right window

Once everyone was washed, dried and fed, the mini-bus was ready to leave, and it was time to wave off the half-day tour group, and get settled in our dorm. The room was a cosy twin, right in the heart of the sanctuary, with a big ceiling fan, and geckos on the windows to eat the mosquitoes.

Aruni’s Flowers

Peace. Simon and I finally find a moment to sit down on the communal veranda and breathe in our surroundings with a Chang beer from the vending machine. Afternoon sunshine paints the trees with licks of gold. Through the gentle breeze, we hear a little "hello!" and a small girl appears from the mezzanine deck, an inquisitive grin on her face, and she repeats, "hello!" Quite confidently, she pulls up a chair beside me, produces a drawing book, and the three of us proceed to draw and colour flowers together! She's the daughter of a mahout, and is home from school for the weekend. She's learning English, and is able to tell us her name is Aruni, and she's four years old.  
Aruni’s Flowers

I had an unfortunate accident on my first evening, through no fault but my own, and I can only sing the praises of Alex and the others who helped. I managed to cut open my cheek, just under my eye, on some very large barbed wire – elephant sized, you might say. Alex quickly sourced some “Lemon Bush Grass” from his herb garden, he chewed it into a pulp and told me to press it on the cut for about 3 minutes. Amazingly it stopped the bleeding, and bought time for Aruni’s mum to find the first aid kit. She washed it with iodine and redressed it every day for a week, refusing to let me look at the damage! I still have a small scar, barely visible now, and a surprisingly fond memory to go with it!

A Day in the Life of a Volunteer

A typical day at the Elephant Retirement Park on the volunteer program looked something like this:

6:30amClean the elephants’ night enclosures
7:30amGather elephant food: typically cutting down banana trees in the park’s nearby plantations
8:30amBreakfast
9:30amElephant care / Community volunteering
12:30pmLunch
1:30pmPark maintenance and upkeep
2:30pmHottest part of the day – time to rest
6pmFeed the elephants
6:30pmDinner – cooking with Alex or going to village for food with the locals

Early Morning Duties

Each morning we’d rise with the sun, waking with the soft trumpets of the nearby elephants, singing for their breakfast. Pulling on our baggy work clothes, we’d step outside into the rising sun, and into our one-size-fits-all wellington boots. It’s a refined look, one that I embraced, with my scarred cheek and borrowed wicker hat… There was a coffee station in the common area outside, and some mornings the mahouts and workers would gather there before the sky was lit, and we would sip quietly until work began.

It is essential for the night enclosures to be cleaned every morning. At 6:30am we’d go around with a giant basket, filling it with elephant dung (really heavy, like grassy, brown bowling balls!) We’d sweep all the old leaves and bits of food away, hose down the floors, and clean and refill the water trough – often with the help of Lanna!

Night Enclosure / Elephant Dung

Then the Utility Truck would start up, the mahouts would beckon “come, come,” and we’d all jump into the open trailer of the Ute. Rumbling along the narrow, uneven road, skirting the jungle, with wind buffering our ears, we made our way to one of the park’s nearby banana tree plantations to harvest food for the elephants.

On arrival, it was straight to work. The mahouts showed us that banana trees grow back super quickly, producing baby green shoots straight out of the stump, which makes them a perfect renewable food source for the elephants. We were told to leave any trees with bananas growing on them, and any young trees, watching for snakes and spiders all the while. The mahouts taught us how to use a machete to cut the tall trees down – a two-handed swing, angled into the lower part of the trunk. They made it look extremely easy, felling trees in a single swipe, while I seemed to be hacking away ungracefully for hours! But I got my trees, and we carried them back to the Ute, loading them in and climbing on top of our loot for the journey home for breakfast.

Banana Tree Harvest

Community Volunteering

Everyday was different after breakfast. Somedays we’d help around the park, or go to another location to help out in the local farming scene. These are some of the tasks we took part in:

Unloading Deliveries

A large delivery of Sugar Cane arrived on the back of a ute, and we had to strip all the leaves, and bind it in bunches with bamboo ties to pack into the food store.

Tying bundles of sugar cane

Elephant Healthcare

We learned how to make vitamin balls for the elephants, by crushing dried papaya and salt crystals in a pestle and mortar. We then squished the pulp together, placing deworming tablets and essential vitamins inside, and rolled them into balls, ready to feed the elephants.

Making elephant medicine

I was tasked with treating a tick wound on Bella’s cheek. Ticks are a common problem for elephants, and can leave big wounds, vulnerable to infection. I took a giant cotton tip, dipped in iodine, and Bella and I had a little bonding session over our matching cheek wounds!

Elephants eat for up to 16 hours a day, but they have an inefficient digestive system, and are prone to digestive issues, so it’s essential their diet is balanced and full of fibre. We used an old shredding machine to make a fibrous mulch, with sugar cane, papaya, banana, salt water, and medicinal herbs. Bella was our taste tester; she took a mouthful with her trunk, and then threw the next trunkful on the floor and flapped her ears! I’m still unsure whether that meant she hated it or loved it!

Deep Cleaning

The enclosure area had a concrete floor, which had become covered in moss over time, making it dangerously slippery for the elephants. We spent two mornings scrubbing it clean with caustic soda, with Alex’s help, and were rewarded with pancakes from the village later!

Working in Rice Fields

One morning after breakfast, we piled into the trailer and Alex drove us to the nearby village “Ban Iek”. The jungle thinned out, and we crossed a bridge lined with Thai flags, until we saw dozens of people all working in the rice fields, on a green back drop of mountains.

Ban Iek Village, San Pa Yang

We were each given a bunch of long bamboo ties, and shown how to gather the pre-cut rice bundles and tie them efficiently, though I’m not sure we were very efficient or helpful to the cause! Everyone was friendly and good humoured, keen to help teach us, and laughing at us every time we got a boot stuck in the thick, wet mud! They taught us to stomp down on the rice stalks and use them as a foundation to stop ourselves sinking.

Another day, Alex brought us to another beautiful location, an independent rice farm, where we helped a couple cut the rice from their fields, using traditional long scythes. It was very hot work, but between the 5 of us, we got the job done.

Harvesting Corn

Making bamboo ties / harvesting corn for food

Landscaping the Park

The Elephant Retirement Park is a constant work in progress, and one of the things they were raising money for was extending the food store. We helped in levelling the ground by hand, preparing it for laying foundations. We also planted herbs and shrubs, for decoration & to expand their renewable resources onsite.

Elephant Walkies

The elephants know, just like dogs when it's time for walkies. They lift up their trunks and frolic up the driveway to the front gates. The first part of the walk follows the dusty road, so we surround the elephants & make ourselves visible to any traffic. We are reminded that you mustn't stand behind an elephant as they don't have good peripheral vision, and if you startle them you'll suffer a hefty kick or a whip from their wiry tail. 
The road leads into the jungle. The woodland is immediately thick and humid - the elephants know the way, and help themselves to the vegetation. There are farmers who live on the outskirts of the jungle, their crops backing onto the footpath where the elephants walk. The mahouts have their work cut out, trying to distract the elephants from the fields of corn, but they are intelligent creatures, and of course, they never forget. The mahouts break off an ear of corn to try and entice the elephants away from the crops, but the distraction doesn't last for long, and there's a five minute pandemonium with a group of naughty, stubborn elephants. Despite the fact it's a public path, Alex tells us it's a worry for them, and is a growing difficulty all over Thailand, since humans are occupying more and more space, encroaching on the elephants' wild habitat. The farmers here have already complained, and if there are more complaints they run the risk of turning it into private land, taking away a lot of freedom for the elephants here.  
   
The jungle path grows wilder and less inhabited, with banana trees dotted around that the elephants love to munch. The path winds upwards and comes out on the high banks of an enormous river, with cascades the colour of chocolate tumbling down from the jungle beyond. Usually the elephants will swim in the river, but heavy rain has made it full and roaring, and so the elephants stay clear of it, seeking out bananas instead. 
Continuing, the path loops, re-entering the sanctuary through the back. We see some impressive bugs - dung beetles, butterflies, and a giant spider strung up in the tall grasses. I spend a lot of the walk dodging the cheeky twins, Ping & Tong, who keep trying to make me into an elephant sandwich! We come to a stream, which Bella decides she wants to drink from, and when an elephant decides something, you can't argue with her! She slurps water through her trunk like a giant bendy straw, framed by ancient trees and bamboo. 

Time to Relax

After a big day of learning and working hard, it was a luxury to have a hot shower, kick back on the veranda under the heat of the mid-afternoon sun, and crack open a can of Chang beer from the vending machine.

Chang means Elephant in Thai

The Temple in the Mountains

One particularly warm afternoon, Simon, Meli and I had just sat down, when Alex said, “Let’s go, I want to take you to the temple!” We quickly made sure we were dressed respectfully, (covering our knees and shoulders) and we piled into the trailer, beers in hand. It was about a 40 minute drive, climbing narrow mountain roads, winding through old villages, beneath the deafening hum of cicadas. Panoramic views and waterfalls passed by on each hairpin bend, until we reached the mountain-top village. A pack of stray dogs chased us through the enormous entrance archway into the precinct, and as we passed, a local monk in an orange robe shouted, “where are you from?” Meli, Simon and I all responded with our respective countries, and then Alex shouted “Thailand!” from the driver’s window, making the monk laugh.

Wat Phra Phutthabat Si RoiUbosot (Ordination Hall)

“Wat Phra Phutthabat Si Roi” is dedicated to the four sacred footprints of Buddha, and is said to be a perfect example of a Thai temple. We visited the ‘Ubosot’ or Ordination Hall, (place of mass worship and ritual ceremonies.) The architecture is incredible, with multiple tiers, smothered in jewels, and guarded by enormous, shimmering basilisks at every corner. It was very quiet, just the cicadas in the distance; the forest swaying gently, and a rainbow streaked the sky behind as we pulled up, adding to the atmosphere.

The Ubosot exterior

Inside was just as impressive, everywhere you looked, a thousand more intricate details. There were golden carvings on each of the windows of Buddhist figures, and Alex had brought us here to show us one in particular…

Nalagiri the Elephant

Nalagiri was a fierce elephant, deliberately angered & used as a weapon by jealous people. He was sent to kill the Buddha but when the elephant charged, he was stopped in his tracks by the Buddha’s belief in kindness and ability to suffuse all beings. Nalagiri the elephant lowered his trunk and fell at the Buddha’s feet, released of his anger. Alex told us of a later chapter he described as “Buddhist Lent”, when the Buddha spent three months in the jungle. Nalagiri remembered him, and stayed by his side during the Buddha’s exile. After three months the Buddha returned to his temple, and Nalagiri died of a broken heart.

Alex was filled with emotion; the importance of protecting elephants ran so deep and that resonated with us. He showed us how to ring the gong, and said a prayer before we went on our way.

Evenings of Leisure

Aside from making sure the elephants had enough food at dusk, the evenings were all about socialising, eating, drinking and having fun! Some nights Alex would take us to the market to buy ingredients for dinner, and then we’d all cook together back at the park kitchen.

We learned how to cook traditional home dishes: fried black fish, garlic & onion salad, tomato, chilli & fish sauce soup, and rice noodles, using a pestle & mortar and a wok. We toasted our dinner with a tot of Hong Thong Whiskey! Also pictured is a classic Pad Kra Pao (Thai Basil Beef) which we had for lunch.

Other nights we had Pad Thai with the locals in the village, or street food banana pancakes. We were introduced to Alex’s friends and spent an evening drinking Leo & Chang beers in a local bar, with dried fish and chicken feet snacks! We even went to a party with an exquisite buffet, dancing ladies, many drinks, and a strange raffle where everyone won cuddly plush elephants!

Party Food

Fruit carving is an ancient Thai tradition, which was once performed exclusively for Royalty, nowadays they can be carved for any special occasion. Other treats are fried banana, Pad Thai, and coconut, sugar & rice starch sweets, served on banana leaves.

Tour Guide for a Day

At the end of our E.R.P experience, myself, Meli and Simon led the half-day tour! We spent the morning touching up on our elephant knowledge, ready for the tour bus to arrive at 8:30 am. We did an introduction, talking about the park and its efforts in protecting elephants, held a little Q&A session, and then took the guests to meet and feed the elephants. We got the group chopping sugar cane with machetes, (demonstrated by one of the real tour guides) fed it to the elephants, then took the guests down to meet Bella who was chilling under the shade. There were a lot more questions about Bella, her injury, and her mothering instincts towards Lanna, which I really enjoyed as I felt I’d bonded well with Bella. It felt terrifying and awesome all at once; we were supervised the whole time, and the staff jumped in whenever we needed help. Then we all went to the mud bath and pool for a play with the elephants.

Leaving was hard. We’d been like a family for a short time, and after going round the park to feed each elephant a pumpkin as a parting gift, Alex blessed us and our families with good luck in Thai. We rode the stuffy mini van back to Chiang Mai old city, feeling a little bit sad, like I’d acquired a lifetime of new knowledge and fond memories, but it was all over in the blink of an eye. Someday, I will visit the elephants again.

In Loving Memory of Bella