2015 – I’d spent the last two years travelling and making a wonderful life in New Zealand, but sadly my working holiday visa was coming to its ultimate end, and it was time to head back to Europe (back when we Brits could call Europe our home). The best flight I could find had a 2 night layover in Singapore. I was nervous – I didn’t know anything about Asia, but I soon realised I had nothing to fear. The city is very convenient for a short stopover, and because people from all the surrounding countries unite here, Singapore is the perfect place for first time travellers to dip their toes in a multitude of Asian cultures.
Flying with Singapore Airlines
My experience began in the taxi-to-take-off on the tarmac of Auckland International Airport. Singapore Airlines were classes above any of my previous experience with budget airlines. They truly live up to their highly professional reputation, and the cabin crew were masters at concealing their distaste towards “yet another sweaty traveller”. Each procedure was a well-rehearsed routine, performed with silver-screen smiles.
There was turbulence over the Java Sea, terrible, shaking, dropping turbulence that made the passengers gasp and grab their seats. I exchanged glances with the young Indian girl sat next to me as we both went to clutch the same armrest, and we burst into a fit of nervous giggles, identifying the mutual flame of fear in each other’s eyes.
I lifted the shutter on the reinforced porthole window, and through the glare of brilliant white light bouncing off the 747’s gargantuan wing, my eyes adjusted onto the glistening shipping lanes of Singapore below. A connect-the-dots of white boats, scattered on the vast swirling sea, just visible through the chalky haze.
Journey to Bussorah Street
Arriving in the hustle and bustle of a new city can be overwhelming, but getting around is made pretty simple in Singapore. I hopped on the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) straight from the airport. The MRT is a similar concept to the London Underground, with 4 different lines that will take you anywhere you need to go in the city. This ran between 6am and midnight and was far less expensive than the tube!
There are MRT maps in the carriages and at most stations, and each stop is announced in 4 languages (usually all at the same time!) English is the official language of the city, although you will equally see or hear Malay, Mandarin and Tamil, as these languages constitute the 3 main cultures of the city.
From the word go, it was evident that locals were friendly and happy to help. The moment I stepped out of Bugis station into the open air, a man asked if I needed any help. He pointed me in the right direction of my hostel and I thanked him. Then, as I waited to cross the busy street, a man zooming past on his fold up scooter shouted, “Thank you, my darling!” I continued to walk through quieter streets, until I came to a lit arch, leading to a beautiful mosque. I could already hear the dull babble of Kampong Glam nightlife, and followed the glow of light to Bussorah Street.
A pretty, pedestrianised street, fronted by the spectacular Sultan Mosque; tall, green palm trees rise up either side, while below, bars and restaurants thrive, spilling onto the paving in chatter and laughter. Right there amongst it all was the Sleepy Kiwi Backpackers, its own tables and chairs outside, scattered with happy travellers enjoying a beer and a laugh. (In my recent research, I found this backpackers is permanently closed, but there are plenty of hostels dotted around the city.)
A Night in Singapore
It’s 28 degrees at night, and the city has no breeze. The hostel lacks carpets and exterior doors, and even windows, but they’re luxuries that are certainly not missed! You raise the bamboo blind in the communal bathroom, to find a large, window-framed hole in the wall. The showers are little wet-rooms through pretty, mosaicked archways, and the wooden shutters in the dorm open straight out onto the street, pigeon spikes lining the ledge. Every dorm has a ceiling fan, which may sound daft in a place that has no glass in its windows, but it is all in the aid of keeping cool.
5 am. The sky shows no relief from night, and the air outside is still and silent. I am awoken suddenly by songs from the mosque before dawn. Haunting and poignant, the Islamic call echoes through the darkness, calling local Muslims to prayer. The night is filled with a voice of incredible compassion that resonates an ache for peace, for just a few minutes, before resuming dark silence.
The Sultan Mosque is a fine work of architecture, not to mention the sacred role it plays in the heart of Singapore’s Muslim community.
When dawn finally broke, the streets were alive with birds, hopping from building to building, and singing in strange and exotic tones. I went downstairs for the all inclusive breakfast – a buffet of fresh dragon fruit, watermelon, juicy orange, and sweet green jam on toast! Tea, coffee and milo were also made on request, and I sat outside to enjoy it.
I met two of the girls in my dorm – Karen and Fan, who were on holiday from Taiwan, hoping to enjoy a beach day on Sentosa (Singapore’s get-away island) and shopping at Orchard Road. They were sweet, curious girls, eager to practise their English.
There is plenty to see in Singapore, and more than enough guides and friendly people to point you in the right direction, but I was lucky enough to have a couple of friends I’d met on my travels, who had agreed to show me around.
Lunch at Marina Bay
I met my friend Tze in the train station at around 11, and we went downtown to Marina Bay where he treated me to some delicious Chinese cuisine in one of the enormous shopping malls. We had sliced duck in pastry, “drunken” chicken, and steamed pork dumplings, refreshing our pallets with ginger and chamomile tea.
After lunch, we took a stroll along the river to the Gardens in the Bay, where we stared up at the “Super Trees” – amazing metal structures, entwined with plants and flowers, up to 50 metres high. Tze told me that the artificial trees are not just there to look good, but are actually solar panelled and at the time supplied 20% of the city’s power.
Looming over the gardens like a zeppelin, (or a giant silver sausage on a fork) is Marina Bay Sands – the world’s second most expensive building in 2015. With 57 floors, this extravagant hotel is 194 metres high, and a room would have cost anything between 500 and 5,000 Singapore dollars per night! One of the building’s many features, is its Infinity Pool – a swimming pool located on the roof, which gives the illusion of just dropping off the edge.
At the end of the river walkway is the Pump House, from which we got a splendid view of the dam, the shipping lanes, and the city skyline behind. You can see everything from the Super Trees to the Singapore Flyer – a 165metre high observation wheel, inspired by the London Eye.
The Merlion
Feeling refreshed by the sea air, it was time to head back towards the CBD for some proper tourism! The 8.6m tall Merlion stands proudly on the edge of the harbour at Merlion Park, spewing 20,000 litres of sea water into the harbour per hour. It was the era of selfie sticks, and everyone wants a selfie with the Merlion, as it’s Singapore’s icon.
The Merlion represents Singapore in many ways; there are a few vague links to Indian folklore, but Tze’s explanation was that Singapore is a gateway to the ocean, and surrounding countries, and so a creature that is half king of land, half king of sea, represents unity. The island is not divided by the sea, but instead connected by it. It is also said that the fish’s body symbolises the origins of a fishing village, Temasek, and the lion’s head symbolises the original name ‘Singapura’ – ‘Lion City’ in Sanskrit.
Beer on Boat Quay
We made our way back around the marina, past the only ‘floating’ Louis Vuitton outlet in the world, and walked around to Boat Quay for a much needed beer. Bartering is not uncommon in Singapore; every seller is out to offer you the ‘best’ deal, and every buyer is out to find the best price. We walked along Boat Quay, bar after bar, in the shells of old Chinese merchant Godowns. There was a string of riverside marquees all laid up with silver service and decorated with red cloths and orange lanterns, on a backdrop of little water taxis going back and forth along the river. Tze finally found a bargain he was happy with, and we sat beside the river and enjoyed a Chang beer.
Train Hopping
We spent the afternoon train hopping through the city districts. One of the most colourful parts of Singapore that I saw was Little India.
Here is where you’ll find one of Singapore’s oldest Hindu temples – Sri Veeramakaliamman – try saying that after a few bottles of Chang! The temple is a visual treat as you approach, a cornucopia of Hindu Gods and Goddesses peering down from the colourful tiers of the roof. Tourists can enter the temple, but must practice the same respect as worshippers, removing all footwear and washing your feet before going inside. Every inch of the interior is dedicated to a shrine, representations of Gods on every wall. Worshippers chant and pray, seemingly unaware of the tourists encroaching on their beloved sacred place.
Next we explored China Town, walking through the bustling markets, little laughing Buddha trinkets and wooden bracelets as far as the eye could see.
It was a stifling, muggy afternoon, and at the China Town gate, Tze bought us a little ice cream sandwich each from a street vendor to cool us down.
Dinner in the City
As darkness settled above the city, the markets and food stalls of Bugis started to come to life. I met another friend, Boon, who took me to a Japanese restaurant for dinner. He was quite the connoisseur, and had so many recommendations, so I let him order for me. The dish he ordered was called ‘Summer’, and was a beautiful ramen, rich with spices and topped with nori. Boon also ordered a bowl of hardboiled eggs for the table, completely over estimating my appetite! One of the cool things about this restaurant was the pestle and mortar on the table to grind our own fusion of spices to taste.
After dinner, we went into one of the great shopping halls to a Kopi tiam – coffee shop. Boon explained the cultural significance of this style of coffee, and that everyone from all ethnicities orders in the Chinese Hokkien dialect. Now, perhaps it was my training as a barista in New Zealand that peaked my interest, or the fact that it was practically a Singaporean tradition, but this was a definite highlight.
He ordered a ‘kopi’ for me, a ‘teh’ for himself, some kaya toast, (a crisp, sugary toast, with a layer of the yummy green jam I’d had at breakfast, which is made from coconut milk, eggs and sugar,) and some soft boiled egg, (because apparently we hadn’t had enough egg already!) They prepared it all before us, and laid it on a tray for us to take to one of the communal benches. The kopi was thick; filtered from jug to jug, and poured over condensed milk, sugar and soya milk, with water poured on top. It was dark, rich and syrupy, I’d never tasted anything like it, and it was well complimented by the crisp, sweetness of the kaya toast. Having since been to Vietnam, I can liken the taste to Vietnamese coffee, but it isn’t the same. Singaporean ‘Kopi’ is unique in its roasting process: a glaze of sugar is added to the beans, giving it that caramelised sweetness. It is highly caffeinated, and dangerously sugary, so despite being a traditional drink, it’s not recommended for frequent consumption.
The Ideal Layover
Singapore is conveniently situated between Oceania and Europe, making it a common layover spot for long haul flights. In 2015, I found the city so accessible, with a wide variety of food choices, plenty of nearby places to visit, and unless you’re visiting to shop the designer outlets, it wasn’t overly expensive.
Jaimie's Travels 