Tag Archives: Queensland

Apr 2

Exploring Australia ~ Atherton Tablelands

7–10 minutes

Leaving Queensland’s Bruce Highway north of Tully, between endless banana plantations, and veering left into farming territory, we headed along the narrow road towards The Misty Mountains. Banana trees whizzed by the windows on either side, while the mountains rose ever closer before us, their looming clouds crawling black across their peaks. Eventually, we joined the Palmerston Highway west, where the road climbed and twisted through rainforest and waterfalls, until we levelled out onto a rolling, green plateau.

Millaa Millaa Falls Circuit

A 17km scenic drive just off the Palmerston highway took us to three waterfalls. Firstly, Millaa Millaa Falls, the most famous for swimming, sunbathing and picnicking.

Over hills and through farmland, with rolling views that reminded me of the English countryside, we drove to the next waterfall. The Zillie Falls viewpoint from the top of the waterfall was quite overgrown, with no clear path down, so I couldn’t tell you how big it was, but it sounded impressive!

Thirdly, Ellinjaa Falls, where we descended on foot through ancient rainforest. The path met the dark, rocky creek, and plenty of people were swimming and crossing the rocks for photo opportunities, while the waterfall rushed on the backdrop.

Crater Lakes National Park

After stopping for fuel in the old village of Millaa Millaa, we drove north, through Malanda, towards Eacham and our accommodation on the edge of Crater Lakes National Park. Down a long, unsealed driveway through the trees, we arrived at Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodges. Big wooden huts on stilts stood nestled in the rainforest, with open decks perfect for wildlife spotting. Inside, we had a kitchen, living space, and a cosy ensuite bedroom at the back.

When nightfall landed, we made our way to the retreat’s viewing deck; my favourite thing about the accommodation. A little wooden hut (like an old bus shelter with rows of benches inside) sat on the edge of the rainforest, with a soft, amber light shining into the trees. Most nights shortly after sunset, one of the staff members would put some natural sweet nectar concoction on the nearby trees to entice the local wildlife. We sat there, silent and still, among other guests, until we heard a gentle rustling in the canopy above us. Then, out of the shadows, quiet and cautious, a Striped Possum appeared on the tree trunk, staring back at us! Everyone froze, and the possum went about its business. More rustling from above, and a pale shape glided past like a small ghost, landing wide-eyed and sprawled on the branch – a Krefft’s Glider, better known as a Sugar Glider! Once the tree-dwellers left, a Long-Nosed Bandicoot came snuffling around the base of the tree, while an Amethystine Python waited keenly on the neighbouring tree trunk…

Striped Possum
Krefft’s Glider (Sugar Glider)
Long Nosed Bandicoot
Amethystine Python
Hunstman Spider

Waking up to a sound collage of bellbirds and whipbirds echoing through the patter of rain in the trees, I spent the morning on the deck, as Rifle Birds, Catbirds and Lewin’s Honey Eaters came to steal some of my apple.

The many angles of the Victoria’s Riflebird
Lewin’s Honey Eater
A pair of Green Catbirds
Have you ever heard a Green Catbird’s cry?

From the Rainforest Lodges, there was a walking circuit along the border of Crater Lakes National Park, which led down to the creek where platypus live, and through the dense rainforest. We only managed half the walk before the leeches found their way onto our socks!

Yungaburra

The tranquil little village of Yungaburra is known as the heart of the Tablelands, with its heritage late 1800s – early 1900s shopfronts and churches. We spent a serene, rainy morning walking along Peterson Creek, which runs along the edge of the village, through a pocket of native Mabi rainforest; an endangered ecosystem that can only be found in the Atherton Tablelands. Keeping our eyes peeled for the illusive platypus as the rain gently tattooed the surface the of the water, while birds watched us from between the leaves.

Emerald Dove

There is a platypus viewing platform further downstream, which takes you under the road bridge for a closer glimpse at the water, but we weren’t lucky there either. There were baby water dragons dangling from tree vines over the creek here, which I’ve never seen before!

The streets of Yungaburra village were lined with flower-filled hanging baskets and native plants, bringing so much colour to the grey weather, and attracting big Ulyses Butterflies with their bright azure wings. Little boutique shops welcomed us in for a mosey, with local art on display and handcrafted things, and while the dark sky continued to drizzle outside, we enjoyed a cosy brunch in the café on the corner – ‘Mr. Belson,’ which was originally the old bank, built in 1912 by Arthur Herbert Belson.

A short drive from Yungaburra village, we found the Curtain Fig Tree. This is just one spectacular example of Australia’s fig trees, which are huge, natural sculptures of the rainforest.

Malanda

This sleepy little town steeped in natural history and dairy farming, is surrounded by lush rainforest. Malanda Falls pours through the forest, which has local indigenous heritage, and so much wildlife, including the Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo.

We followed the rainforest trail along the creek and through the trees, glimpsing catbirds and pademelons, but it was difficult to spot anything directly above us in the dense, high canopy. It wasn’t until we got back to the carpark on the other side of the road, we saw a group of people staring up at the edge of the rainforest. Low and behold, well hidden in the branches at the very top of a tree was a Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo!

Malanda Falls
A Pademelon
Can you make out the Tree Kangaroo’s head facing to the right, and the tail hanging down through the branches to the left?
Here is a clearer photo of one I saw at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary a few years ago.

Back in the town, we enjoyed a classic pub lunch in The Big Pub – Australia’s largest wooden hotel, built in 1911 in just six months! The pub is still under the management of the original family, and maintains its original design.

Lake Eacham

In the heart of the Crater Lakes National Park lies Lake Eacham, a beautiful ecosystem formed by volcanic activity, surrounded by rainforest and shared by humans and wildlife. The picnic area on the lakefront was busy in the morning. It was overcast, but the sun kept peeping through, and the air was warm. Children played in the water, swimming and launching kayaks and paddleboards, despite the large sign warning of the resident crocodile!

Families prepared breakfast picnics on the grass, with fruit and pastries and coffee flasks, when suddenly I heard a child yell, “Cassowary!” I whipped around, and there was the giant bird, plodding into the grass area, pausing to peruse the picnics on display. It was interesting to see how everyone reacted, and quite evident that these were mostly locals and not tourists. Those who could moved away to a safe distance, while the others who didn’t have time simply stayed still and calm until the Cassowary moved on. The whole park went quiet, everyone just watching until the Cassowary slowly plodded away. I waited until it was on the other side of the carpark before I took a picture with my zoom lens. Even then, when it turned and looked directly at me, I knew it was time to disappear!

Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowaries can grow to 6ft tall and are Australia’s largest bird by mass; the second largest in the world after the ostrich. Emus can be just as tall, but weigh considerably less. Cassowaries are endangered and declining, therefore are rare to see, being confined to a very small area of Far North East Queensland. They need a very specific habitat and don’t mix well with humans. Though they can be curious, especially around food, they can quickly become skittish and territorial, with the capacity to fatally harm with those long talons and powerful legs.

Later in the evening, we walked the Lake Eacham Circuit; a beautiful, relaxing walk, which took around an hour, circling the volcanic lake through the rainforest. The evening sun began to sink lower in the sky beneath the clouds, pouring gold over the trees and the ripples on the water. A little Grey-headed Robin followed us through the woods, and I saw a tiny Musky Rat-Kangaroo hop into the bushes, which is only found in this pocket of North East Queensland. Cormorants and turtles surfaced in the shallows, while people jumped into the lake and enjoyed a sunset swim.

A Grey-headed Robin
A blurry glimpse of a Musky Rat-Kangaroo

Atherton

The morning we left the Tablelands was dark and moody again; drizzle smudging the windows slightly while the windscreen wipers screeched. We went through Atherton – the main town in the region, with an agricultural history making it a prime location for backpackers looking for farm work. The town’s main street stood strong with colonial and art deco buildings lining the road. Hostels and pubs advertised their lodgings and lunch specials, and there seemed to be plenty of cafes and banks, and even a shopping centre. It is said to have a vibrant culture with an abundance of community arts and sports, while the surrounding land is prolific with crops such as sugar cane, mangoes, coffee, peanuts, tea, corn, macadamia nuts, avocados, berries, and there are also cattle and dairy farms. Here we left the gloomy highland skies behind us, along with the enchanting rainforests and their mythical animals, and we continued into the North to our next destination…

Atherton

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May 3

Great Barrier Reef – Lady Musgrave Island

A real desert island, complete with a tropical lagoon and reef oasis, sits around 95km off the coast of Bundaberg in Queensland. Lady Musgrave Island. Part of the Bunker Group, this is the southernmost section of the famous Great Barrier Reef and plays host to a magical menagerie of sea life.

Ok, David Attenborough voice aside, this was my favourite Great Barrier Reef experience so far. Taylor and I booked the ‘Lady Musgrave Experience’ Day Tour for late February, and I was not disappointed! Between January and March is turtle hatching season, and many mother turtles are still laying their eggs through February. The tour did get cancelled on the day I’d booked it for due to dangerous offshore wind conditions (went to the Bundaberg Rum Distillery instead – never a bad thing!) The tour was easily rescheduled for the following day, at no extra cost, and went ahead as planned.

6:45am: Checked in at Bundaberg Port Marina
7:00am: Boarded the “Reef Empress” ready for departure

Boarding the “Reef Empress”

The morning was warm, full of promise, with the first blue sky we’d seen in days. All passengers were assigned to a group as we boarded the boat; Turtles, Clownfish and Dolphins – we were Dolphins. This was simply for the rotation of activities once we reached the island. The crossing was a rough 2 hours, the majority of passengers needed paper bags, clutching their heads and holding on for dear life. We took our ginger tablets and sat watching the crew running around cleaning patches on the floor and disposing of used paper bags. They were incredible, remaining upbeat and cheerful the whole time.

A rough crossing

2 hours later, we pulled into a big semi-circular reef lagoon, with the gold and green island in the centre. Firstly, I need to talk about the colour of the sea. You couldn’t even paint it. It was blue, yes, a light, bright blue with stripes of turquoise and green wherever the reef lay below, but it was iridescent, backlit if you will, shining like fluorescent light!

On the Pontoon

Anyway, we stepped off the boat onto the enormous three-storey pontoon, (with an underwater viewing room below deck, and glamping style beds on the top deck for the overnight experience) and the first thing I saw as I gazed out across the reef was a turtle! It was just floating on the surface about 20 metres away, its shell all clean and beautiful.

The Glass-Bottomed Boat

After a brief snorkeling run-through, the 3 groups broke off. The Dolphin group were on the glass-bottomed boat first. Our guide was Tyson, and he floated us over the different types of coral: staghorn, brain, boulder, plated, finger…. As he was explaining that the white tips on the coral is actually regrowth, not bleaching, a Brown Booby Bird swooped low next to the boat, majestically stealing our attention.

Next, Tyson steered us over a ‘turtle cleaning station’, a part of the reef where little fish nibble all the algae off the turtles’ shells. We could see the silhouettes of 4 turtles being cleaned far beneath the surface, and as we drifted over, one swam right up to the glass, giving us all a clear glimpse of its beautiful pristine shell, before popping its head up right beside the boat! Tyson said that was the closest he’d ever seen a wild green turtle and was pretty stoked himself!

Green Turtle under the Glass Bottomed Boat

Lady Musgrave Island

We pulled up on Lady Musgrave Island, where another guide, Jordan, met us for a walk around Capricornia Cays National Park. The sand is white, broken coral, with flecks of pink, and is so sharp you are advised to wear footwear at all times. One of the deadliest creatures of the ocean can be found on this beach – Cone Snails, which might look like a pretty, pink shell to collect, but the creature has a tiny barb that it fires through an opening in its shell, which has the ability to kill a person in half an hour. It wouldn’t be Australia if something wasn’t trying to kill you…

Iridescent Waters
Coral Beach

Behind the beach is a dense canopy of green Pisonian Grandis trees, and then you notice the birds. I’m not sure if the noise or the smell hits you first, but when you notice the sheer amount of little black sea birds nesting in the trees, you really get a sense of the wildness of this island. They have no predators here, and they’re everywhere, diving, swooping, pooping, screaming, and they appear to wear little white hats, hence their name: White Capped Noddy Terns. They inhabit the Pisonian forest, and are part of an intense circle of life, see, the island is basically a pile of coral; the birds nest in the trees, and their poop helps fertilise the trees. The trees also produce these sticky, sappy traps, which capture some of the Terns in a slow and sticky death, essentially using the birds as plant food. Gnarly.

The Edge of the Pisonian Forest
A White Capped Noddy Tern Chick in its nest
Pisonian Forest

But aside from the stench, the forest was beautiful to walk through. I also spotted a couple of Buff Banded Rail birds scratching about on the ground, and some tiny Capricorn Silver Eyes darting about the branches. We came out on the other side of the island, onto the beach, where sun bleached logs litter the coral sand.

A wild beach
A Bridled Tern rests on a log; a White Capped Noddy Tern flies overhead

Then came a turtle, just a dark shape in the shallow water, moving closer to the beach. Then came another, and another! They didn’t leave the water, but one came so close to the shore that Jordan identified that it wasn’t big enough to be of nesting age (30), so she must have just been curious! We strolled back around the island along the beach, and hopped back on the glass-bottomed boat, back to the Pontoon for lunch.

  • Bridled Terns, Greater Crested Terns, Sooty Oyster Catchers, Pied Oyster Catchers & Seagulls
  • Turtle Swimming up to the Beach

Snorkelling on the Reef

Finally it was our turn to snorkel, the part I’d been looking forward to all day. After a quick lunch of salads and cold meats, we quickly got our gear on and jumped in the reef lagoon. The first thing you see are little groups of little black and white fish, swimming for a close up of your funny goggles. As you get closer to the coral shelf, schools of tiny blue fish shimmer like a glittery curtain as they dart back and forth in unison.

Scissortail Sergeant Fish
Blue Green Chromis & Lemon Damsels
Whitley’s Sergeant Fish around purple coral
Moorish Idol
Butterflyfish

Parrot Fish have beaks that enable them to feed on the coral.

They come in a huge array of colours, you can see the orange one’s teeth-like beak.

Chinese Trumpet Fish
Fox Face Rabbit Fish
Plated, Staghorn and Brain coral

The coral is beautiful here, splashes of colours somehow pop under the water. I was so engrossed in watching interesting fish appearing from the reef that the turtles caught me off guard! Taylor caught my eye, signalling to me under the water, and pointing ahead; there it was, appearing out of the murkiness, coming towards us, so majestic, as though flying beneath the waves. This Green Turtle was about the size of a grown man’s torso. Her tail was barely visible, showing she was female, and she swam right underneath us. I turned and followed her for a short while, before she dived into the depths of the reef.

Female Green Turtle

The second turtle was skimming along a shallow shelf of reef at my eye level, flapping her flippers, and surfacing a few metres away. I popped my head up too and saw her floating on the surface!

Brain Coral
Giant Clam
Sea Cucumber
Green Parrot Fish
Blue Parrot Fish

After an hour of solid snorkelling, we sat on the edge of the pontoon sipping on a Gin Mule, dangling our feet in the ocean. On the boat ride back, we saw an Olive Sea Snake wriggle by in the waves, and several dolphins.

Facts of the Day:

  • The Great Barrier Reef is roughly the same size as Japan.
  • You can’t visit the adjacent Fairfax Islands because they were used for target practice by the Australian Military in the 1940s, and there is likely to be live ammunition still scattered on the islands.
  • Without the birds, there would be no trees on Lady Musgrave Island, and without the trees there would be no birds. Without either of these, the island would be a bank of dead coral, and may have been washed or eroded away.
  • Corals are actually living invertebrates related to jellyfish and anemones.
  • Coral relies on its resident algae to survive. Photosynthesis in the algae creates food for the coral.
  • Some corals actually catch small fish and plankton to feed on.
  • The tiny white tips you see on the coral reef is not bleaching; it is in fact regrowth.
  • The colour you see on coral is actually produced by the algae as a form of sun protection. The deeper the coral, the less colour it will have, as it will have less sun exposure.
  • Coral Bleaching is caused by rising temperatures and pollution that kills the coral’s algae. When the algae is gone, the coral dies.